Abaco’s emerging heritage sites

Abaco is rife with interesting historical sites. Most have lain in thick coppice or remote forest for years known only to a few hardy souls willing to forage through the bush.

The Wilson City lumber mill (photo) is an example of a site explored by many persons as the road ended at the waterfront close to the ruins. Foundations, rusty boilers, cellar holes and other signs of civilization lead one to speculate on life there 100 years ago. The original dock site where sailboats took lumber to distant ports is now being considered for a dock for tankers to deliver fuel via pipeline to an inland BEC generator plant. If it comes to pass, we hope that the pipeline route will respect the ruins and artifacts remaining there.

Other sites are equally under jeopardy by development and progress. People in years gone by did not settle in the worst spots; conversely, they chose the best places. For obvious reasons, these places are still desirable today.

Our amateur historical sleuths have discovered many of these sites and have quietly kept this information to themselves over the years for good reason. Some sites are generally well known but not readily accessible.

Besides the Wilson City mill site which employed over 500 people, there were five other lumber mills on Abaco of which Norman’s Castle is probably the next best known. We are not aware of ruins at Norman’s Castle to the extent remaining at Wilson City but 500 employees and their families cannot walk away without leaving some evidence behind.

There were many sisal mills on Abaco at the turn of the nineteenth century. The remains of one is a short distance from the road to the beach south of Blackwood and beside a small blue hole. Building next to a blue hole made good sense as this provided an easy supply of fresh water.

The sisal plantation on Little Abaco on the south shore between the bridge and Cedar Harbour is generally known but is perhaps an hour’s walk through the forest from the road. Only a few hardy persons have seen these ruins believed to date to the late 1800s and may have been still occupied in the early 1900s. The site is adjacent to one of Abaco’s largest blue holes.

Our most notable piece of history is the Elbow Cay Light Station built in 1862 and still functioning as one of the last kerosene-fueled lighthouses in the world. Although originally not wanted by the Hope Town residents, it is now their pride and joy. We are told that it and the light-keeper’s houses badly need attention.

The Hole-in-the-Wall lighthouse dates to 1836 and is a sad remnant of the original complex. The tower was converted to solar power in the mid-1990s and left to function automatically with perhaps an annual maintenance inspection. The buildings are in very poor condition. The site is accessible by a two-hour drive from Central Abaco. The last 15 miles take approximately an hour with your vehicle getting scratched by overhanging brush.

In this general vicinity are Barque Bay, Lantern Head and Alexandria. These are rather remote and accessible only to the adventurous. Ruins at some of these locations may date back to the 1700s or early 1800s. Some believe they may have been sisal or pineapple plantations, whaling stations or perhaps a military garrison. Etchings in walls and rocks suggest a whaling operation at one site.

A pending development and recent survey trails near Barque Bay and Lantern Head have brought some of these sites closer to public view. The Nassau-based Department of Antiquities, Monuments and Museums has become quite interested in several of these sites. They are planning explorations with a professional team to get a better idea of the extent and historical value of these sites.

Besides the obvious places with a civilized background are the Arawak Indian sites which are much harder to recognize. These original human inhabitants lived in harmony with the land and left few obvious clues. However, those few clues are visible to persons trained to see them.

Beyond the early human presence is the rich archeological evidence coming to light of extinct animal forms that inhabited Abaco over 2,000 years ago. Recent discoveries deep in a blue hole adjacent to one of the early lumber camps have yielded animal remains which have astounded the scientific community. The preserved fossils are proclaimed to be by far the best specimens found in the entire Caribbean.

Further studies and explorations are in the works. The relative ease with which these fossils were uncovered makes one wonder what else remains to be found. The words relative ease should not be taken lightly however.

What is the future of all this known, uncovered or yet-to-be discovered history? It is part of the heritage of every Bahamian and needs to be appreciated. These sites have an intrinsic value that cannot be given a dollar value. They need to be protected vigorously and reverently as they are an important link to our past.

If managed properly, the preservation of these sites can also equate to revenue as visitors, both Bahamian and foreign, with increased knowledge of our past history and easier accessibility, will want to see them.

Access is a double-edged sword. Most people will come to look and wonder while a few will come to plunder. Forty years ago, my wife and I discovered a main dump site at Wilson City. We mistakenly told a neighbor who then proceeded to ravage the site with picks and shovels. Abaco’s history deserves better care than to be sacked by a few adventurous persons.

Abaco is facing a bright but unknown future with many developments either underway or in the proposal stage. The Abaco economy will continue to expand at an accelerated rate. Our population is poised to continue to lead the country in growth. Our leaders will face many social challenges with a growing, demanding and educated populace.

Exposing, understanding and preserving all our historical sites must be incorporated in our growth. The relevant government agencies and civil society must work hand-in-hand to ensure that our past is a part of our future.

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